Wedding Dress Styles: Shapes and Necklines You Need to Know

Discover which design works best for your body type and which to avoid with our ultimate guide to wedding dress styles and necklines!

2. Ballgown

Best for: Most body types, but not very petite frames

A ballgown is that traditional ‘princess’ style, which pairs a fitted bodice with a dramatic, full skirt. It’s a very flattering look for those with a big bust or broader shoulders as it evens out your top and bottom half. However, you need to be careful if you’re petite as the dress can overwhelm you.

This style exudes glamour and is perfect for those who dream of a classic fairytale wedding. Combining a lace-up bodice and a full, pleated or gathered ballgown skirt will really nip you in at the waist.

3. Basque

Best for: Slender bodies or short torsos

Basque dresses have a fitted bodice that sits just below the natural waistline and have a gentle V-shape at the front of the bodice. This style elongates the torso but draws attention to the waist so don’t wear if you’re self-conscious of your stomach.

4. Column/Sheath

Best for: Athletic figures

A slim-cut style that drapes straight down from the neck to the hem. It looks fantastic on tall or short lean figures but it can be very unforgiving as the fabric often has little stretch. A column or sheath dress follows the body’s natural shape so is a fantastic choice if you want to show off a willowy figure but should be avoided if you’re conscious of your hips.

5. Drop Waist

Best for: Smaller hips and longer torsos

On a drop waist dress, the waist falls below the natural line to the mid-hip. It can be difficult to pull off as it adds length to the top half, meaning it can make petite women’s legs look shorter. An exaggerated drop waist is typically seen on mermaid and trumpet dresses where the waist line is at mid-thigh or below the knee.

6. Empire

Best for: Apple shapes looking to emphasise their waist or athletic figures to create a bigger bust

Empire silhouettes have a high waistline that starts just under the bust on a fitted bodice. The skirt is normally long and flowing, which skims the body, emphasises the bust over the waist and helps lengthen the body.

Empire line dresses are perfect for slim body types with a small bust, and for petite individuals who want to appear taller. It’s forgiving around the legs and hips and is also great for apple shaped nearlyweds, with a little extra weight in the middle, bringing attention upwards and smoothing-out the middle.

7. Fishtail/Mermaid

Best for: Hourglass figures

Fishtail or mermaid dresses are fitted down the body and flare out at or below the knee. This creates a sleek “mermaid” tail shape and is fantastic for emphasising curves. The key difference between a mermaid and trumpet dress (below) is where the flare begins. For the trumpet/fit-and-flare dress it’s mid-thigh, whereas a mermaid dress flares dramatically below the knee.

Choosing lace as your main material will detract from any lumps and bumps and make this figure-hugging style more forgiving. It also benefits from a little added height, so add a pair of comfy heels you can wear all day.

8. Fit-and-Flare/Trumpet

Best for: Hourglass and pear figures

A fit-and-flare or trumpet dress comes somewhere between an A-line dress and a fishtail dress. The fabric is fitted to the body from the bodice down to mid-thigh where it flares out to the floor in a “trumpet” shape. All these names are often used interchangeably by dress designers so make sure you look clearly at where the flare begins on the dress you try on. Trumpet dresses are easier to move in as the flare comes above the knee.

9. Princess

Best for: All body types

Princess line dresses are not the same as ballgowns. A princess line dress uses princess seams which go from the top of the dress to the hem and are long and curved, meaning there is no defined waist. The seams hug tightly to a woman’s curves, giving a tailored look that is very flattering on bigger busts as it slims the torso and gives more room in the chest area – but looks universally good.

10. Short/Tea-Length

Best for: Petite body types or destination weddings

These are quite simply dresses with a shorter hemline. A tea-length dress will sit between mid-calf to just above the ankles, while a mini dress will be mid-thigh. Floor-length dresses can swamp short nearlyweds to a higher hemline may look better; simply heavy layers may not work on a hot beach but a floaty tea-length dress will.

3. Bateau/Boat

Popularised by Meghan Markle’s wedding dress, a bateau neckline is cut in a straight line from shoulder to shoulder following the collarbone. It’s high at the back and the front so is a great modest neckline that looks fantastic with or without sleeves.

4. Halterneck

A halterneck dress is a sleeveless gown that either has two straps from the bodice that meet at the back of the neck or a high neckline with deep armholes and a backless design. It’s a popular alternative to a strapless dress for modern nearlyweds that shows off the shoulders and upper arms.

5. High Neck

A high neck is popular among the Victoriana trend where the neckline comes up to their mid-neck or underneath the chin. It’s a modest neckline that longs brilliant on those with long torsos.

6. Illusion

An illusion neckline is usually a strapless dress with a sheer panel of fabric from the top of the bodice to the neckline. The sheer panel is often made of lace, net, tulle or organza and may have embellishment on it. It gives the impression of a bare décolletage while being covered up. You’ll often find illusion backs on dresses too.

7. Scoop

A scoop neckline is low-cut and in a rounded U-shape. As it’s deep and wide, it’s flattering on most body types as it draws the eye down to lengthen your neck and drawing attention to your collarbones. If you’ve got a large bust, it can be a good way of showing off your cleavage without displaying too much.

8. Spaghetti Strap

Thin straps (resembling spaghetti) are all that holds up the dress on a spaghetti strap gown. These delicate, floss-thin straps give the look of bare shoulders while providing a little bit of support. If you have a large bust, it’s best to avoid as they won’t give you peace of mind.

9. Square

Square neck dresses have an angular shape created by three straight lines. This neckline will downplay a round face and help to give the shoulders a broader look.

10. Strapless

With no straps attached to the neckline, a strapless dress sits snugly across the bust and under the arms, fastening securely at the back. It’s essential to get a strapless dress properly fitted as anything too tight can lead to spillage by the armpits and back regardless of how petite you are. It’s a classic look and shows off a statement necklace or jewellery.

11. Sweetheart

This wedding dress style is loved by nearlyweds for its feminine and romantic look. A sweetheart neckline forms a natural heart shape across the bust and can either have straps or not. It works with larger busts, showing a hint of cleavage. This is also a great neckline if you have an angular face as the curves and contours add softness and balance.

12. V-Neck/Plunge

A V-neckline is formed by two diagonal lines from the shoulder that meet on the chest, the plunging ‘V-shape’ exposes the neck and décolletage. The depth of the plunge will vary for a little notch to down to your navel, so be wary of how much cleavage you want to show. However, V-necks create the impression of height and are particularly good for apple shapes.

How do I choose the right wedding dress style for my body type?

Choosing the right wedding dress style for your body type can feel like a big decision, but it should be a fun and exciting part of your wedding planning!

Start by figuring out your body shape—think hourglass, pear, apple, athletic, or petite. If you’re rocking an hourglass figure, mermaid or fitted A-line dresses will hug your curves in all the right places. For those with a pear shape, go for A-line or ball gowns that balance your proportions and highlight your gorgeous upper body. Apple shapes can benefit from empire waist dresses or flowing A-line styles that beautifully drape over the midsection.

Athletic nearlyweds might want to consider sheath or mermaid styles to add some curves, while petite nearlyweds can opt for tea-length dresses or V-necklines that create the illusion of height. At the end of the day, the best wedding dress styles are the ones that make you feel fabulous and true to yourself, so enjoy the journey and have fun trying on different looks!

What wedding dress style is best for a petite bride?

When it comes to finding the perfect wedding dress style for a petite nearlywed, the key is to choose something that enhances your frame and makes you feel amazing! A-line dresses are a fantastic option because they gently flare out from the waist, creating a lovely silhouette without overwhelming your figure. Tea-length dresses are also super cute, hitting just below the knee for a playful, vintage vibe that’s perfect for smaller frames. If you’re looking to add some height, opt for a V-neckline or even a high slit to elongate your legs. Steer clear of heavy fabrics or overly voluminous skirts though, as they can make you look smaller!

How do I find my wedding dress style inspiration?

Finding your wedding dress style inspiration can be a fun and exciting journey! Start by exploring Pinterest, where you can create boards filled with all the dresses that catch your eye. Wedding publications *cough cough Hitched* are also a great way to discover a mix of classic looks and trendy styles while you relax with a cup of tea or coffee.

Don’t forget about social media—following bridal boutiques and designers on Instagram can spark fresh ideas and show you real nearlyweds in beautiful gowns. If you have the chance, attending a bridal fashion show can also give you an up-close look at the latest trends. Plus, chatting with friends or family who’ve recently gotten married can offer valuable insights and inspiration. So, keep an open mind and enjoy the process—you might just stumble upon your dream dress style!